Drink me: Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Rosé

I have to confess that I am not much of a sparkling wine connoisseur, or even appreciator. I rarely go out of my way for bubbly. (DPaul, on the other hand, adores the stuff.) However, I've had enough of it to know what I like, and I like this.

We first encountered the Feuillatte Rosé at the tail end of 1999. We had purchased a bottle at Bi-Rite, in a comemmorative cylinder. It wasn't until we got it home and opened it on New Year's Eve that we discovered it was a rosé. Unsure what to expect, we opened it for our midnight toast, and discovered that we liked it very much indeed.

And then, for a matter of years, we could never find it again.

Because this label was new to us, and because of its scarcity at the time, we assumed it was a small producer. Little did we know, in fact, that Feuillatte is part of a collective that is in fact the largest in the region, and second in production only to Moët.

In the last couple of years we've seen a resurgence of Feuillatte champagnes, and now the Rosé is readily available. And that's a good thing.

Flutes are fine, but this champers really shines with a good set of champagne saucers. I wish I knew why this flavor of stemware fell out of fashion. I love watching the columns of bubbles rise from the floor of a wide saucer, collecting in everchanging continents on the surface. I also like the gentle spray of mist you get when you go in for the first sip. And there's something so wonderfully old-school classy about them. Think Cary Grant and Deborah Kerr in An Affair to Remember.

Feuillatte Brut Rosé has a gorgeous salmon color, with consistent and diminutive bubbles. It's mildly sweet, with subtle berry flavors, and a fluffy mouthfeel as it explodes into an airy cloud on the tongue. I can't think of a better way to usher in the new year.

Happy New Year to all of you. May 2007 bring newfound prosperity, fortune and happiness.